Barbareño

California Cuisine

It’s a balmy Santa Barbara night, and like many Friday evenings, the energy of State Street seems to grow with every clanking dish and wandering group of chatty out-of-towners. For those looking for the quintessential dinner experience, downtown hosts an impressive sampling. Classic international fare like Italian, French, Mexican, and even traditional pub food, all take residence within this two-mile radius. However, upon closer look, one might notice a lack of creative dining options that feature regional cuisine — cuisine that celebrates the original and authentic flavors of our beloved coastal town.

Enter Barbareño.

Barely a year old but boasting a strong following and an inventive menu, Barbareño fills the gap by celebrating the homegrown flavors and unique stories native to Santa Barbara. My friend and I decide this standout will perfectly fit the bill for our Friday night excursion. As we drive up De La Vina, the charm of the passing Victorian homes reminds us that we will be dining slightly off the beaten path — a welcomed realization. We spot our destination on the corner by the glow of the patio’s overhead string lights and the group of people comfortably socializing beneath them. Already I can feel the allure of the restaurant — a secret gem, a lively meet-up, a local’s Friday night.

Before we know it, we are escorted to our table inside where the energy heightens as we pass passionate foodies gathered over beautifully plated dishes. Our waiter introduces himself as David, and goes on to explain how Barbareño offers an authentic Central Coast experience. The region’s rich history is echoed even in the very name of the restaurant, ‘Barbareño,’ the extinct language of the Chumash people native to Santa Barbara. I don’t think it gets any more authentic than that.

With a quick glance around the room, I pick up on an earthiness that pays tribute to the ancient land on which the restaurant stands. Dark wood and fresh white linen top each table. Piles of chopped wood, indigenous woven baskets and iron stools all surround the bar area. The stained concrete floors and modern lighting lend themselves to a more industrial-feeling restaurant but with a rustic warmth — a unique balance that I’m quite confident was intentional.

David arrives with the homemade bread and goes on to describe the delicate nuances of the freshly churned butter. I proceed to paint some onto a fresh piece of sourdough canvas. I’m impressed with his knowledge of each ingredient and the intricate process it went through to make it onto the plate. He must have read my facial expression — of both curiosity and excitement — because he reminds me that every dish has a story, and also, that Barbareño is dedicated to the art of reinterpretation. Well from the fresh sourdough and the pure gold they call butter, I say let the reinterpretation begin.

To start, we choose the Chef’s Plate from the “Snacks” section of the menu, and I take the extra time to let the interior soak in. At the center of each table is an intricate rock or shell, its crevices lined with succulents and spouting air plants. I take a sip of my water from a thick-rimmed, olive- tinted glass that was crafted from a repurposed wine bottle. Another hidden element to add to the restaurant’s already impressive whimsy.

I continue to admire the decor and the lively conversations going on at each table. Everyone seems to be feeding off the energy of the whole room, like a scene from an Italian curbside cafe, a bustling New York City restaurant, or a wine country tasting room. The warm, inviting atmosphere serves as the perfect backdrop to Barbareño’s true loves — community, good conversation and exceptional fare.

As if right on cue, the couple to my left leans over and eagerly unravels the story of how they were introduced to Barbareño. The Ventura residents had read an enthusiastic review of the restaurant and had to make the short trip up north to experience it for themselves. She goes on to say how high her expectations are, and that my friend and I are sure to be in for a real culinary treat.

Our conversation is only one of the many light- hearted and spontaneous exchanges that fill the establishment. Also adding to this welcomed chaos is the open kitchen — the whirring of the KitchenAid mixer, the slicing of more sourdough bread and the focused yet elegant plating by the chef. My friend and I comment on how lucky we are to be seated by the entertainment of the kitchen. I soon realize, though, that most tables are close enough to catch the action. Another job well done by Barbareño.

David arrives with our Chef’s Plate: finger food versions of some of the most flavorful and brave combinations I’ve ever tasted. We sample the Santa Maria Tartare, made using all the components of the classic Santa Maria barbecue, but in mostly raw ingredients. I’m talking garlic crust, cold-smoked tenderloin, tomato coulis, cilantro salt, bean and onion sprouts, and a jalapeño curl — in one bite. Alongside the tartare is the Avocado Gazpacho, a chilled avocado soup with white balsamic, togarashi, a brioche crouton, and Thai basil. One sip alone, and I know I’m coming back. The final feature of the Chef’s Plate is my favorite; the fun and quirky Eggamuffins are blinis topped with Seascape cheese mousse, speck and cured egg yolk, paying homage to the invention of the Egg McMuffin at the Milpas McDonald’s in 1971. After sampling each daring option of the Chef’s Plate — and then savoring a second round of them all — I’m confident that Barbareño likes to set the bar pretty high.

As David clears our plates, and we bombard him with various questions about the food, my friend notices herbs hanging in the wide doorway leading to the other half of the kitchen. Rosemary, eucalyptus, bay leaves, and sage placed overhead almost as if a statement: fresh, flavorful herbs and authentic ingredients take center stage here, starring in every dish we send out.

We scan through each of the equally tempting appetizer options and decide on the California Roll and the Oak Tagliatelle. They both prove to be perfect snapshots of the individuality Barbareño has brought to the Santa Barbara restaurant scene. The California Roll is drizzled with homemade Sriracha, a black garlic ponzu swirl and ginger rice milk foam. You heard right — ginger rice milk foam. However, the highlight of the dish is the avocado, which we learn is also a Santa Barbara native, with the first avocado tree having been planted right where the outdoor patio currently sits. The Oak Tagliatelle seems like a meal straight from an enchanted forest, as the acorn pasta sits in a soothing, smokey broth and is sprinkled with asparagus and wild mushrooms that the chef might have just foraged for us. My friend thinks she’s identified a sort of wild zucchini flower among the grated goat cheese garnish. We agree that we can’t be too sure. Regardless, each dish has been outrageously inventive and flavorful so we say bring on the mystery.

Although our stomachs are filling fast, our anticipation for their most popular dish, the Santa Maria BBQ, is sky high. Served with braised pinquito beans, garlic butter and deconstructed pico de gallo, the cold smoked tri-tip is the juicy, melt-in- your-mouth tender you hope for. The top-selling entrée seals the deal.

My friend and I take only a minute to conclude that dessert is necessary for a complete Barbareño experience. True to form, the restaurant offers non-traditional yet perfectly paired combinations like Olive Oil Brioche and Basil Ice Cream. David explains that in honoring the classic pesto theme, the basil-infused ice cream is matched with lemon curd, candied pine nuts, a drizzle of olive oil and a parmesan cookie. We take our first bites and practically sigh. The airiness of the homemade ice cream is perfect with the fresh basil, tart lemon and rich olive oil. It’s as if the familiar flavors of pesto have finally met their match in the classic creaminess of everyone’s favorite dessert.

The ice cream and this entire culinary adventure couldn’t have been more of a win. Every course was bold, fresh and imaginative — leaving us equally impressed and entertained throughout. As we make our way out we are lucky enough to hear about the vision behind the restaurant from co-owners, Jesse and Julian, general manager and head chef. They explain that a two-month trip to international foodie meccas in Spain, France and Italy served as the inspiration for refining the heart and soul of Santa Barbara’s own palate. From there, their creativity soared once they decided to limit the ingredients to those which best honor the Central Coast.

My friend and I, so full from the exquisite food and our renewed sense of Santa Barbara pride, graciously thank the owners and our insightful server. As we slowly walk past the patio on our way to the car, we notice the second shift of Friday night locals getting started; the sourdough bread and fresh butter just arriving. Their outdoor meet- up seems enchanting — twinkling lights, fresh air and blankets nearby in case of a chill. My friend and I look at each other with a single thought. What more could have made our already delightful experience that much better? Perhaps the patio? We agree that we’ll have to return shortly to find out. *