les marchands

All happiness depends on a leisurely breakfast.
— John Gunther

But first, brunch

It’s a Sunday morning—actually just before noon—but the Funk Zone still seems a little sleepy, too. With the ocean fog still lingering in the empty streets of Yanonali and Anacapa, and the overhead speakers quietly echoing the voice of Ella Fitzgerald, my boyfriend and I pass the brick and sheet metal facades that characterize the Funk Zone. We spot the white umbrellas of the Les Marchands patio and are welcomed warmly to their brunch. 

We’re excited to try their cocktails and Anda, the manager, clues us in on the fame of the Clear Conscience and the Caipirinha, also a dinnertime favorite. We’re quick to take the hint and gladly order one of each. 

A couple of sips is all it takes for me to claim the Clear Conscience; it’s a light and refreshing pairing of vodka with muddled cucumber, orange, lime, and ginger. My boyfriend opts for the slightly sour, more intricate Caipirinha, made with the Brazilian brandy Cachaça, cane sugar and lime.

The drinks do not disappoint, just as Anda assured, and we find ourselves admiring our slow morning among the ivy of the Funk Zone. It’s truly the kind of Santa Barbara snapshot we take a little more time to stop and enjoy. Surrounded by the promise of good food and gorgeous weather, we settle into our conversation at the most peaceful brunch Santa Barbara has to offer.

Brioche from Above

We start our meal the best way possible with the house-made ricotta, strawberry jam and brioche plate. Our waiter places down a wooden cheeseboard carrying a mason jar filled with fresh ricotta and a layer of thick homemade jam. Stacked alongside the ricotta is warm buttery brioche; we each reach for a slice, and our waiter tells us it’s from Helena Avenue bakery two doors down. We can see through their large glass windows that they are working hard on their next batch. The cool ricotta and jam atop the crispy yet soft brioche is a flawless pairing—one definitely worth a return visit. 

Cheddar-Jalapeño Biscuit

The patio is starting to fill up with people probably also here for the dream duo of fresh ricotta and jam. A group sits their beagle beneath their table and it seems to settle in nicely, admiring the outdoor ambiance. Neighboring the SB Wine Collective and The Lark, Les Marchands seems to effortlessly bridge the character of both establishments, with a charm of its own. We’re brought the fried chicken dish next, and it's nestled with a cheddar-jalapeño biscuit and topped with a fresh egg over easy. Our first bites into the savory tower happen to break the egg yolk and it oozes onto homemade sawmill sausage gravy. We add a kick to the fried chicken by peppering it with a bit of house-made Les Marchands hot sauce—the final touch to an already satisfying and hearty classic American dish.

Dreamy Cinnamon Whipped Cream

Our indulging continues with a culminating sweet course, the sourdough waffle. The gooey strawberry syrup still melty atop the waffle is a sophisticated and welcomed alternative to the stickiness of traditional maple. And while the waffles and strawberries stand alone as winners, the homemade cinnamon whipped cream is the true gem of the day. Complementing the summer berries, the cinnamon clouds are light and fluffy, and speckled with proof of authentic spice. I forget about the waffle completely and can’t help but dip my spoon until it’s all but a dream. My next trip might have me pairing the brioche and the cinnamon whipped cream for a truly heavenly combination. 

We’re still sipping on our Caipirinha and Clear Conscience—we’ve ordered seconds at this point—and it adds a delightful hint of fresh herb to the sweetness of the waffle. We thank Anda and our waiter, and find ourselves reviewing our favorite menu items with them both. Their passion for brunch is apparent in both the food they've presented and their suggestions for next time. As we head out, I take another look at the harmonious patio scene and the adorable beagle still cozied up by the feet of his happily dining owners. He too is a connoisseur of Sunday mornings in the Funk Zone.*